NATURALLY LEAVENED CHRISTMAS PANETTONE – BREADTOPIA
Provided by: Melissa Johnson
Total time: 4 hours 50 minutes
Prep time: 4 hours 0 minutes
Cook time: 50 minutes
|Sourdough Starter Refresh your active, 50% hydration sourdough starter as follows:|
|60g starter (50% hydration, tripling in 4 hours)|
|60g bread flour|
|240g high gluten flour – or – bread flour with added vital wheat gluten|
|75g granulated sugar|
|105g water at room temperature|
|85g unsalted butter, softened|
|85g of egg yolks (about 5 large eggs), divided|
|60g active 50% hydration sourdough starter, 4 hours from refreshment (see instructions)|
|All of the First Dough|
|60g high gluten flour – or – bread flour with added vital wheat gluten|
|All of the Aromatic Mix (see below)|
|60g granulated sugar|
|80g egg yolks (about 5 large eggs), divided|
|5g table salt|
|90g unsalted butter, softened|
|10g water at room temperature|
|All of Dried Fruit Inclusions (see below)|
|1 Tbsp vanilla extract|
|Zest of 1 orange (blemish free)|
|Zest of 1 lemon (blemish free)|
|(Reduce zest of ½ of each fruit if you are using candied citrus.)|
|Dried Fruit Inclusions (240g total)|
|80g raisins, soaked in 120 ml (4 ounces) water – or – 60 ml (2 ounces) water + 60 ml (2 ounces) rum or the spirit of your choice|
|80g golden raisins, soaked in 120 ml (4 ounces) water – or -60 ml (2 ounces) water + 60 ml (2 ounces) rum or the spirit of your choice|
|80g dried cranberries, soaked in 120 ml (4 ounces) water – or – 60 ml (2 ounces) water + 60 ml (2 ounces) brandy or the spirit of your choice|
|Dried Fruit and Candied Peel Alternative|
|120g raisins (soak in 5 ounces of 50:50 water and the spirit of your choice, or water only)|
|90g candied orange peel in small pieces|
|30g candied lemon peel in small pieces|
- This recipe will take two days plus any sourdough starter preparation time and will make two 500g panettones with a little dough left over (that can make one or more mini versions). The times listed here are the ones I use/observe. Your times may vary due to differences in starter strength and proofing environment.
- DAY 1 at 8:00 AM
- Refresh the sourdough starter
- Mix (by hand or with stand mixer) 60g of an active 50% hydration sourdough starter with 30g purified water until the starter is softened and absorbs most of the water (about 3 minutes). Add 60g of bread flour to the previous mix and stir to combine. Once the mixture comes together into a rough dough ball, turn out onto a clean surface and knead until it forms into a smooth, homogenous ball, around 10 minutes. Place refreshed starter into a container with straight sides, mark the original dough level and place in a warm spot to rise, preferably between 83F and 85F.
- DAY 1 at 10:00 AM
- Prepare the aromatic mix
- Wash the orange and lemon with a vegetable/fruit cleaner, rinse and dry. Remove the zest with a microplane or similar zesting tool, taking care to remove only the outer skin, not the white pith. Mix the zest with the honey and vanilla extract in a bowl. Let it sit out, covered, at room temperature for around 24 hours.
- DAY 1 at 12:00 PM and 4:00 PM
- Refresh the sourdough starter again
- The starter should have tripled in volume since the last refreshment. Refresh using the same method as in the previous refreshment. Discard any unused starter from the last refreshment or save it to make bread, waffles, scones, etc.
- DAY 1 at 4:30 PM
- Prepare the dried fruit
- Measure out the raisins, golden raisins and dried cranberries, each in a separate container with a tight fitting lid. Add equal parts rum and water (or just water) to cover the raisins and golden raisins and stir. Add equal parts brandy and water (or just water) to cover the dried cranberries and stir. Let them sit out, covered, at room temperature for 4-5 hours.
- DAY 1 at 6:00 PM
- Start softening the butter
- Remove the butter from the refrigerator and let it come to room temperature.
- DAY 1 at 8:00 PM
- Prepare the First Dough
- Add the flour, sugar and room temperature water to the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment. If you made your own high-gluten flour, remember to only use 240g of it here. Mix on low speed until the dough just comes together, around 3 minutes. Although this dough starts out very stiff, you’ll eventually add a lot of egg yolks and butter, which will soften it considerably.
- Switch to a dough hook attachment and continue mixing on low/medium low speed for another 10 or 15 minutes, until the dough is smooth.
- Then start adding the softened butter, a little at a time, waiting until it is completely absorbed before adding more. This will take some time. You may have to switch back and forth between the hook and the paddle to mix the dough effectively.
- Make sure you do not over work the dough any time during the mixing by checking its temperature frequently. If the dough temperature reaches 79°F (26°C), place the mixer bowl, dough and hook in the freezer for 10 minutes to cool it down before resuming.
- After the butter is fully incorporated, start adding half of the egg yolks, a little at a time, waiting until they are fully absorbed before adding more. Once they are incorporated, add the sourdough starter, broken up into a dozen pieces or so, and then add the rest of the egg yolks, again a little at a time until fully absorbed.
- Continue mixing until the gluten is fully formed and the dough is smooth and shiny in appearance. The dough needs to pass the “windowpane test” before you are done. Take a piece of the dough and stretch it out until you can practically see through it. If it tears, continue mixing, for a bit longer, perhaps at the next higher speed. The dough ball should pull away cleanly from the sides of the bowl and wrap around the hook when it is done. The dough processing may take 30-45 minutes or more to complete.
- When the first dough passes the windowpane test, place it in a large container with straight sides that can accommodate triple the current volume of the dough and cover it with a well-fitting cover or with plastic wrap. Mark the initial dough level so you can tell when it has tripled. If you are using a covered bowl without straight sides, take a small piece of dough and put it in a straight-sided glass, cover it with cling wrap and mark its level. You will use this piece to determine when the dough has tripled in volume. Place the dough (and glass with dough ball, if used) in a warm place to rise for around 12 hours, preferably at around 85F.
- DAY 1 at 10:00 PM
- Drain the dried fruit
- After completing the first dough, drain the raisins, golden raisins and dried cranberries and gently squeeze out the extra liquid. Distribute them evenly on a cookie sheet lined with several layers of paper towels. Cover with several more layers of paper towels and another cookie sheet with a few weights on top to help pull any extra liquid out of the rehydrated dried fruit. (Alternatively, you can just roll the dried fruits up in paper towels.) Let them sit out overnight at room temperature.
- DAY 2 at 8:00 AM
- Start softening the butter
- Remove the butter from the refrigerator and let it come to room temp.
- Note: Check on the first dough to see how it is rising. Depending on the temperature, it could take anywhere from 8 to 15 hours to triple in volume. You may have to adjust the times listed below accordingly, depending on your rising environment.
- DAY 2 at 10:00 AM
- If the dough has not tripled in volume, wait until it does. Once the dough has tripled in volume, proceed with this step:
- Prepare second dough
- Place your first dough, mixer bowl and hook attachment in the refrigerator for 30 minutes to cool down while you measure out the ingredients.
- After measuring the ingredients and cooling the dough, bowl and hook; add all of the first dough, the flour and the aromatic mix to the mixer bowl and mix on low speed with the dough hook until all the ingredients are incorporated, about 10 minutes. You can increase the mixing speed a little near the end of that time. The dough should already wrap around the dough hook and should continue doing so throughout the mixing process after new ingredients are absorbed.
- Add the sugar a little at a time, waiting until it is fully absorbed before adding more.
- After adding all the sugar, add about 1/3 of the egg yolks, a little at a time, until they’re fully absorbed
- Then add the salt and another 1/3 of the egg yolks, mixing until fully absorbed.
- Add the softened butter, a little at a time, waiting until each dose is fully absorbed before adding more.
- Add the rest of the egg yolks and continue mixing until fully absorbed.
- Add the water a little at a time and mix for another 5-10 minutes. Note that it might seem a bit scary to add more liquid to the dough, since it is already very soft. I have reduced the amount of water in this recipe from the amount in the original recipe, because I was frankly too scared to add more water! Follow your own judgement if you are too nervous to add more water. However, while using high gluten flour, the amount of water I list above has always worked fine for me.
- After the water is fully absorbed, the dough should be able to pass the windowpane test. If not, mix for another few minutes.
- After the dough has passed the windowpane test, add the dried fruit in several doses until it is fully incorporated. The resulting dough will be soft, elastic and very shiny.
- Transfer the dough to a container, cover tightly and let it rest in a warm place for 30 minutes.
- DAY 2 at 11:30 AM
- Pre-shaping, Shaping and Final Proof
- After the resting period, turn the dough out onto a clean working surface. It will help prevent any sticking if you wipe a thin coating of soft butter on the working surface and on your hands before this step. Let the dough sit uncovered for 15 minutes. Then measure out two – 550g pieces of dough and set them on the greased working surface. Divide any remaining dough into pieces of about 50g each to make mini panettones.
- Form each piece of dough into a ball, by pulling the outside edge of your right hand across the top of the dough from left to right and around the right side of the dough in a clockwise direction. Then use your left hand to perform a similar but opposite motion pushing from right to left across the bottom of the dough and around the left side, again in a clockwise direction. Repeat this motion several times and the dough will form a ball with a taught surface. Italian bakers call this move la pirlatura. See the post above for a couple of videos demonstrating the process.
- Form all of the other pieces of dough into balls in a similar fashion and then let them rest for 15 more minutes, uncovered.
- This is an ideal time to arrange your panettone molds on a baking sheet and pre-skewer them: two skewers running parallel close to the base of the molds.
- After 15 minutes, for each dough ball, perform the pirlatura again and immediately scoop it up with a dough scraper and transfer it into one of the appropriately sized paper panettone molds.
- Place all of the filled panettone molds onto a rimmed baking sheet.
- Cover each mold with a plastic film or plastic bag, and place the entire baking sheet with molds to rise for 8-12 hours in a warm spot, ideally 83-85F.
- DAY 2 at 7:00 PM or later, depending on dough expansion
- Score and top the panettones, and bake them
- When the dough reaches about an inch below the top of the panettone molds at the edges, turn on the oven and heat to 330F.
- As soon as the dough rises to about 3/4 inch below the top of the panettone molds at the edges, uncover the molds and leave the dough open to the air to form a thin skin.
- When the dough rises to about ½ inch below the top of the molds and is cresting just above the mold in the center, it is time to score the top of each panettone with a cross using a razor blade or a very sharp knife.
- If possible, peel the dough skin (four triangles created by the score) back a bit, starting from the center. Place small pats of softened butter on the exposed dough and then return the flaps to their original positions.
- Before placing the baking sheet in the oven, make sure you arrange the molds to maximize the space between them, since the tops can mushroom outward as they bake.
- Bake the large panettones for 50 minutes at 330F or until the internal temperature reaches 201F. The mini panettone only needs around 40 minutes to bake, so remove that from the oven when it’s done, leaving the larger panettones in place. Try not to disturb the large ones too much or slam the oven door because they can and will fall just like a soufflé!
- DAY 2 Immediately after Baking
- Hang the panettones upside down to cool
- Immediately after taking the panettones out of the oven, push two skewers through the base of each panettone mold, if you did not pre-load the skewers, and turn them upside down, hanging them between two boxes or inside a tall container that can accommodate their size. The panettone crumb is very delicate and will collapse under its own weight as it cools if it is not inverted.
- Leave them inverted for at least 3 to 4 hours or overnight to cool. Then you can remove the skewers and enjoy a fresh slice of homemade panettone!
- These panettone will keep well stored in a closed bag for at least a week. (Although ours never last that long!) They also freeze very well.
TRADITIONAL PANETTONE | RECIPE | CUISINE FIEND
Provided by: Cuisine fiend
Total time: 18 hours
Yield: makes 3 medium or 2 large panettoni
|10g sourdough starter at 100% hydration (liquid, equal amounts of flour and water)|
|strong white bread flour|
- Place the starter in a small container with a lid and mix it with 10g water and 20g flour. It will get thicker, to 50% hydration (twice as much flour as water) after a couple of feedings but it’s good to mature it longer. I usually do it over 3-4 days, so 6-8 feedings. ‘Knead’ it with a spoon into a ball, cover with the lid and keep at warm room temperature. At 12 hours intervals discard all but 10g of starter and mix it with fresh 10g water and 20g flour.
- Now you need to turn the thick starter into lievito madre which is an intensely fed starter: like a battery chicken. Feeding needs to be done every 4 hours, with a 6 hour break for the night.
EXAMPLE OF TIMING:
Day 1 feedings:
4pm 20g starter, 20g water, 20g flour
8pm 20g starter, 10g water, 20g flour
12pm 10g starter 10g water 20g flour
Day 2 feedings:
6am and 10am 20g starter, 10g water, 20g flour
2pm 40g starter 20g water 40g flour
6pm make the first dough
The container with the starter needs to live in a warm place (see above) at all times, 30C/85F.
Between the feeds the starter should puff and bubble up; use a small container (apart from the last feed) so you can see its progress.
INGREDIENTS FOR PANETTONE
This makes 1500g of dough, to fill 3 x 13cm (500g) cases or 2 x 16cm (750g) cases.
For the first dough:
346g flour, strong white bread or half and half strong and Italian 00
190g water at room temperature
5g fresh baker’s yeast or 1g (1⁄3 tsp) osmotolerant yeast, or 1.3 grams (1⁄2 tsp) instant yeast
83g caster sugar
3 large (55g) egg yolks
7g (11⁄2 tsp) diastatic malt powder (or 7g malt extract)
83g unsalted butter, softened
86g mature starter (lievito madre) from above
For the final dough:
all of the first dough
82g flour, as above
5g (1 tsp) fine salt
11⁄2 (25g) large egg yolk
2 tsp good quality vanilla extract or seeds scraped from 1 pod
zest grated from 1 orange or 1 tsp good quality orange extract
40g water at room temperature
82g caster sugar
126g unsalted butter, softened
74g water at room temperature
100g candied orange or mixed citrus peel
For the glaze:
80g caster sugar
1 tbsp. ground almonds
2 tsp vegetable oil
1 tbsp. corn flour
1 tsp cocoa powder
1 small (30g) egg white
1 tsp. vanilla extract
For the topping:
Swedish pearl sugar
whole blanched almonds
standing mixer with a dough hook attachment
3 x 13cm (500g) cases or 2 x 16cm (750g) cases
6 bamboo skewers
Prepare the first dough the evening before baking; suggested timing above.
- In the bowl of a standing mixer mix all of the first dough ingredients until smooth. Cover the bowl with cling film and ferment for 12 hours at warm room temperature (about 22C/72F), or longer for a cooler room. The dough will more than triple in volume and almost start to collapse.
For the final dough follow the steps:
- Add the ingredients for step 1 to first dough. Mix at low speed for 5 minutes. Scrape the sides of the bowl with a spatula if necessary.
- Turn the speed to medium. Add the sugar in 5 or 6 goes, mixing continuously at medium speed for 2 minutes after each addition. Continue after you’ve added all the sugar until the dough is smooth and elastic, bounces off the sides and bottom of the bowl and almost passes the windowpane test.
- Windowpane test: pull a little of the dough between your fingers and stretch until it’s almost see-through. If it doesn’t tear, that means the gluten is fully developed.
- Add the butter and turn the mixer back on at low speed. Mix for 2 minutes, then up the speed to medium and continue for about 10 minutes until the butter is completely absorbed. Do another windowpane test: the dough should now form thin membrane without tearing. If not, mix for another 4-5 minutes.
- In low speed add the honey and half the amount of water. Mix until fully absorbed. Add the remaining water and mix until fully absorbed.
- Still in low speed add the raisins and peel and mix only until roughly evenly distributed.
- Butter a large container (plastic box or a large shallow bowl) and pour the dough into it. Close the lid or place the box/bowl in a large plastic bag and prove for an hour in a warm room; stretching and folding twice every 20 minutes.
- To do that, butter your fingers lightly, grab the underside of the dough and fold the dough in three over itself along the length, like an envelope. Turn the container and do the same fold, stretching gently, in the opposite direction along the width. Repeat again in both directions, cover and leave for another 20 minutes; then repeat the stretching, folding and 20 minute proving.
- Turn the dough out onto buttered surface and divide in half or in three (depending on the cases you’re using) with a dough scraper. Gently push the dough portions with the scraper and your hand to form light balls. Leave them uncovered for 20 minutes.
- Prepare the paper cases for hanging: pierce each case near the bottom with two thin wooden skewers to make kind of rails. Place the cases on the oven rack so you can transport it into the oven later without disturbing the panettoni.
- Tighten the rested dough into taut balls by folding it on itself from all sides; cupping it with your hands and dragging gently over the work surface. Drop them into the cases, smooth side up. Prove at a warm room temperature for about 2 hours (depending on how warm it is; it might take much longer than this). When they have risen so the sides of the dough are about 3cm below the rim of the paper case, it’s ready to bake.
- Preheat the oven to 180C/350F/gas 4 – or use fan oven at 170C/325F if available. Make the glaze: mix all the glaze ingredients together to smooth paste. Brush or pipe it gently over the risen dome, making sure not to deflate it; use the glaze sparingly as it weighs down the dome. BTW the most impressive dome will be obtained if you don’t glaze the panettone and just dust it with icing sugar after baking – but the glaze is to die for. Sift icing sugar over the glazed domes, sprinkle some pearl sugar and arrange almonds on top.
- Slide the rack with panettoni into the oven and bake, without opening the oven door, for 35 minutes for the medium ones and 45 minutes the large ones. In the meantime prepare your hanging apparatus: I used piles of books set next to each other at less then the skewers’ length distance or a clothes rack turned on the side. Anything that will let you hang the breads upside down propping it on the skewers will do the job.
- Hang the panettoni immediately after they are out of the oven; use gloves to handle them as the oven glove may be too bulky. Leave them hanging for at least 5 hours or overnight; this will prevent collapsing of this airy, delicate crumb and will not affect the freshness, especially in glazed ones.
Five hours later or the next morning slice them with a large bread knife, paper cases and all, and wish you’d made double the amount.